Saturday, May 28, 2011

May 27, 2011

Last Day!

We headed out early -- 7:30 a.m. Once in the van just about everyone fell asleep immediately. Our trek took us about 2 hours outside the city to the Chongming Dongtan Nature Reserve. It was good to see a bit of the countryside and some agricultural fields along the way. The Reserve is at the mouth of the Yangtze River on the world’s largest alluvial island. This area is home to numerous migratory birds and several species of fish. The park consists of a series of nature trails and boardwalk pathways. We spent about 2.5 hours wandering around. Oddly, the pathways were lined with annuals! Strange to see ornamental flowers in a natural wetland area, but this is China after all -- everything is over-the-top ornamental. Little white butterflies were everywhere. The air was cool and breezy. It certainly felt coastal and peaceful.




Upon our return to Shanghai, we were dropped off at the Old Town area. This district caters primarily to tourists and consists of a series of old, traditional buildings which are full of shops. After a few hours of exploring we walked back to the hotel. Our suitcases are now brimming with goodies!

We have so many great stories to tell! See you stateside very soon!

Friday, May 27, 2011

May 26, 2011

Day 11 -- This morning we all loaded up into the van and headed over to visit SWA Group’s firm, which opened in Shanghai EXTREMELY recently. It was interesting seeing this office still getting its feet on the ground and settling in. SWA Group has offices in Dallas, Houston, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and a few other places. Most of the currently 20 office employees in Shanghai have only just arrived within the past couple of weeks from a variety of the U.S. offices, as well as several new employees locally. As a firm, they have been working on projects in China for the last 10 years and it made sense to open an office here to have better connection to the sites, clients, and time difference.




We were met by Pamela Conrad, a transfer from the L.A. office, who gave us a tour of the recently expanded office. To describe this office in two words, bright and spacious. We walked in and were greeted by a bright red accent wall in the reception area and lime green floors. Once again, we were very excited to see the spacious Western-style studio with lots of trace and layers of it on people’s desks.

After giving us a brief presentation of some of the projects that SWA was working on here in China, some of the professionals told us more about the firm, working in China, and some tips for getting internships and jobs.

Leaving SWA, the van took us to the Suzhou Creek Art galleries, a renovated, industrial neighborhood that had sprung up with new studio spaces as a small artist block. We wandered throughout the exhibits for an hour or so, looking at artists whose names seemed both local as well as foreign.




There were a few highlight exhibits for me, one being a series of portraits of traditional Chinese Theatre masks, painted faces, and modern icons that were done in a very bold almost plastic-looking black, white, and red colors. Within faces though, one noticed that the artist had drawn thousands of little figures all connected, forming the shadows and contours of the face. Another was a multimedia collaborative exhibit titled “Omen.”

The artists incorporated all sorts of media, from rice paper cuttings to painting to antique vanity mirrors with LED lights to create figures or write words from behind the artwork. It was also amusing that several food-for-thoughts were scattered intermittently throughout the exhibit such as one pointing to a telephone number and saying, “Call if you are French” and one giving the sage advice that “If you take the square root of your age and divide it by the area of the room, then read aloud in a thick Scottish accent you shall have the answer to all your problems.”

We reconvened and headed to lunch at a restaurant called elementfresh. A very L.A. style restaurant with sandwiches, smoothies, salads, soups etc. all made with fresh produce. It was delicious, enough said.

This afternoon we visited the Shanghai World Financial Center, the world’s highest building (when it comes to occupiable floors). First off, this building is HUGE. Its one of those buildings where you look up and you get a crick in your neck trying to discern where the actual top of the building is located. We walked in and got our tickets for the observatory and were ushered through this reflective LED hallway (this building is very new, completed in 2008.) There was a series of informative displays about the building and Shanghai’s development, including an awesome model of the Huang Pu riverfront. The detail was absolutely insane with all the building’s windows and patterns depicted. Not only that, the model cycled through the day and night showing the lights go on and off through the day, with an LCD screen as a background showing the sky. They also had a graphic showing the growth of NYC, Shanghai, and Tokyo by watching in section how the buildings sprang up over time. It was insane: New York grew taller at a fairly steady pace, Tokyo also fairly steady with several huge spikes, but Shanghai appeared out of nowhere within the past twenty years or so. It's truly amazing. The rate that projects go up and get turned around into construction is crazy here. If China is still classified as a developing country it certainly is developing FAST.




An elevator guide ushered us into the elevator that would take us up to the observatory. It was like we stepped into Willy Wonka’s magical elevator, for as we passed each floor LED lights along the sides of the elevator, along with a circular screen showed our speed as we flew up to the 97th floor. On the skywalk we got some amazing views over the city. It almost was surreal, like we were looking at a model, not the actual skyline. Unfortunately today was a super smoggy overcast sort of day so we could barely see across the river. Still the height of this building is shocking, even more so the fact that the Shanghai tower across the block is going to be even taller and judging the rate of construction here, probably going to be completed very soon. From the skywalk we went up to the observatory on the 100th floor, which had glass peepholes out of the tower as well as glass walls and mirrored ceilings to provide views all over the city. It was extremely bright today, so sunglasses were a definite must up here.






Our van picked us up and drove us to the Shanghai 2010 World Expo site, where we walked around the Houtan Wetland Park, a riverfront revitalization designed by Turenscape, which improved the quality of the polluted Huang Pu River water through a series of terraced wetlands which cleaned the water to a non-potable state. This water saved the World Expo an equivalent of $500,000 in water treatment expenses, for approximately 500,000 gallons of water were treated and reused throughout the Expo site for non-potable uses.







The park was extremely peaceful; there were very few users when we wandered in, a great contrast to what it must have been like when it was servicing vast pedestrian movement during the Expo. Originally a steel factory, then a shipping yard, and later a landfill, this Turenscape incorporated some of the remaining industrial structures into the design, framing views of the Shanghai skyline and wetland park along a boardwalk surrounded by a great variety of wetland plants. We took a few hours just to wander around the giant loop that goes around the park.




Dinner tonight was at Hot Pot King! We’ve been spoiled eating several Western meals the past couple of days, so our chopsticks skills were not as up to par as they probably could have been. While our last hot pot meal was very traditional and authentic, the electric stoves built into the table heated our two different types of cooking water, one filled with tomatoes and cucumbers, and the other chilis and other spicy oils. Everyone got to go through a buffet of different Chinese sauce ingredients and concoct their own dipping sauce, a bit of a daunting task, but I think everyone’s mixtures were good. We ordered our ingredients and had about five to a hotpot trying different combinations of cooking water or sauces. It was a great meal, only made better by a visit to the ShenShen bakery next door to the restaurant for dessert.






Long day, but lots of fun!

-- Anne Hundley

Thursday, May 26, 2011

May 25, 2011

Day 10 -- The day began with the Western breakfast on the 31st floor of our hotel. This buffet breakfast seems to be becoming more popular, as each day it is more difficult to find an open table. Luckily we did and after we were filled with fried eggs, hash browns, and pastries, we met up in the lobby to walk to our various activities.

We walked first to the Shanghai Urban Planning Museum. This museum was an interactive, bright and colorful display of how Shanghai has grown and the goals Shanghai planners have for the city. The first real part of the museum had a scale model of the city of Shanghai. Although I am not sure what scale the model was to, I do know it took up the entire room and was the largest scale model I had ever seen. I am sure most all of us can say the same.






The model was also interesting because it would light up various parts of the city to display how they might look at night. On the same floor as the model was a movie that was on a circular screen, meaning we stood on the middle platform and could see the movie on the screen that completely surrounded us. It was flying through a virtual model of the city, which was fun to watch, but also made you slightly dizzy when attempting to walk out of the theater area. The next floor housed explanation and interactive displays about transportation, ecology, real estate, and redevelopment projects in Shanghai. There were also the comprehensive plan goals for future Shanghai. Another floor had a painting exhibition, although not directly related to planning, it was beautiful and interesting to see the oil paintings. The most interesting thing about the museum was probably the juxtaposed pictures of Shanghai in 1980-1990 and Shanghai in 2004. The pictures were taken by a father in the '80s and a son after the extreme growth of Shanghai. The amount of growth is shocking and most places were farms and neighborhoods only 15-20 years ago, and are now high-rise office and apartments or highways.




After the museum we walked to the People’s Square. This is a design square and park area surrounding the Shanghai Museum. This museum housed ancient artifacts from China. There were many old ceramic pieces, old currency and art pieces. Many of us ventured out into the square to sit and wonder. The park and square are heavily used, especially by families. The square is also frequented by pigeons.

We left the square by subway and made our way to the AECOM building where we split up to find our own lunch. Lunch can be tricky as the language barrier can cause problems, but by pointing to the menus and using large hand gestures we are able to get by.




After lunch we met Jonathan Corbett who is a K-State graduate. He explained what he does at AECOM and their various projects, as well as giving us work to do. We had a quick design charette which we were given a current project of theirs and were asked to help think of ideas for the project. It was difficult for a couple of reasons: 1. The project is an extremely large riverfront park that has a wetland and levy to work with, and 2. The client requested the park be "high tech," but no one is positive what that means.



We first were given background by Jonathan about the project and then were set free to think of how to define "high tech" for a park and what programs and design concepts would work well in a high tech park. Ideas we all came up with was making the park have educational features for the surrounding school, as well as health sensors and exercise equipment to promote health. There were ecological considerations and water treatment design concepts as well. We then presented our ideas and received positive feedback from various designers at AECOM. The experience was great and exciting to see and better understand the scale and pace of projects in China.




Jonathan then took us to the Taiking Road shopping area for dinner. We ate at a very good burger restaurant, and it was amazing. We listened to Jonathan talk about his experience living and working in China, then shopped for an hour, and then headed home via the subway!



Wednesday, May 25, 2011

May 24, 2011

Day 9 -- Today, we finally saw our first glimpse of the sun in Shanghai; and luckily, it followed us to Suzhou for a pleasant day in the Chinese classical gardens. All of us began our day enjoying our free “Western” breakfast the hotel provided. The foods range from hash browns, to lotus root, to fried eggs to meat and vegetable dumplings. To say the least, our stomachs did not go hungry this morning. After we finished our meal, we headed down towards the lobby in anticipation of a day filled of classic gardens.

The two hour bus ride to Suzhou proved to be a great nap for the majority of our family-sized van. As we all awoke from lucid dreams, we pulled into our parking spot at the Suzhou Museum where we met our tour guide, Steven. Steven knew all about Suzhou, because he grew up there. He first took us to the Suzhou Museum designed by I.M. Pei. This was the last building that Pei ever built, and it stayed true to the classic Chinese architecture of the area. We saw some lovely cultural relics including jade burial masks, painted fans, and a carved elephant tusk.


Suzhou Museum


After wandering through the architecture by Pei, we moved onto the Humble Administrators Garden. This is the largest classical garden in Suzhou, so we knew it would be impressive. However, we worried that the crowds would be similar to the Summer Palace and there would be no peace or enjoyment. But there was peace and quiet to be found! And, as the day went on the crowds got smaller and smaller! Thank goodness for quiet and peaceful places. We also saw a koi fish the size of a dolphin (or at least close enough.)






For lunch, we explored on our own for snacks, and we half succeeded with purchases of dough balls and sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves. Even though we were not completely full after our meal, it was so inexpensive we didn't complain. When we were walking around we finally got to see the canals of Suzhou. Suzhou is pretty much the Chinese equivalent to Venice. The canals are not only practically used, but are beautiful.




The general consensus for the day was that we liked having time to sketch and that we were not surrounded by tourists. The Lingering Garden, my personal favorite, was the second garden we visited. It had different areas to stop and actual enjoy the scenery. Something interesting about the classical gardens we saw today was that they were completely compacted landscapes into someone’s backyard. Also, the existing architecture dictated how the gardens were laid out, creating awesome views and private view corridors.




The final garden, The Master of the Nets Garden, was the smallest and most peaceful. It felt like we were some of the only people there. But some of us took to the time to sketch and take jumping pictures in the circular doorways. We really like jumping pictures.

Jena was late to our meeting point, so Steven ran off yelling her name to make sure she was not lost. And she wasn’t, so we were good to go. After we left the garden, we bid adieu to our local guide and dropped him off at a street corner. We left Suzhou and began our two-hour bus ride back to downtown Shanghai. We went straight to our Shangenese restaurant and enjoyed beer and roasted pigeon. Dwight Law ended up joining us which livened up the conversation.

Until next time,

BYE BYE!

-- Rachel Barth

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

May 23, 2011

Day 8 -- Today was our first full day in Shanghai, and unfortunately it rained all day. This morning we visited Dwight Law’s firm, DLC. The studio has a much more western and familiar feel than Turenscape. We got a lecture from a horticulturist named Justin Jenks about Chinese gardens that was pretty interesting.


DLC Studio


Xiantandi tour by Dwight


Across the hall from DLC is Benwood which is the architecture firm that worked on the Xintiandi District. We got to talk to Ben Wood for awhile and he told us about some of his projects in Shanghai. After that Dwight gave us an overview of the projects DLC is working on right now including urban design, various parks, and wetlands. Then he took us out to explore the Xintiandi District.

This area maintains its historical architecture of Shikumen residences while creating a more modern feel. Many of the buildings have been converted into more upscale restaurants and boutiques. One of these Shikumen homes has been preserved as a museum that we got to tour. It was really interesting.

For lunch we went to a nice western restaurant that served mostly sandwiches, burgers, wraps, and pasta dishes. By now we are all starting to get a little weary of having Chinese food for every meal, so it was a nice change.

Burgers and fries!


After lunch we headed to Taikang Road. This area is full of art galleries, cafes, and boutiques. It is a really cool area and we explored and shopped for about an hour.


Taikang Road District


Next we took a tour of the French Concession. This area has a mix of European and Chinese architecture. All the streets are lined with mature London Plane trees. The tour was somewhat disappointing because we spent most of the time in the bus and we arrived at Sun Yat-sen’s (revolutionary father of the China’s republic) former residence after it closed so we couldn’t go inside. We did get to go to Fuxing Park though which was really pretty.


We also went to the Shanghai Museum of Arts and Crafts and Jin Jiang Hotel which is historically the best hotel in Shanghai. For dinner we went to a Tibetan restaurant that was really good. Tomorrow we head out of town to Suzhou Gardens, so hopefully the weather is nicer.




-- Jena Biondolilo

May 22, 2011

Day 7 -- It was a bittersweet day, saying goodbye to the historically rich city of Beijing, as well as our tour guide, Christina, and saying hello to the Westernized, consumer society of Shanghai. Christina helped us check into the airport and to see us off to Shanghai. We really enjoyed our time in Beijing and were excited to see a new city. Our three-hour flight was amazing: quick security checkpoint without any problems, spacious seating (compared to U.S. flights), a meal, a movie (Inception), and pillows and blankets.


We made it to Shanghai!


We were met at the airport by a member of Dwight Law’s firm. After waiting in an hour of Shanghai’s gridlock traffic, we arrived at our glorious hotel.


Traffic @ 2 p.m. on a Sunday


This place is amazing! Each room has a living room, two TVs, an amazing bathroom, free usage of converters, and free breakfast. The hotel also has a massage area and a sushi restaurant below. It is located very close to the Bund as well. Once we were through with exploring our hotel, we headed to the Bund.


Details along the Bund


Buildings along the Bund


The Bund is located along the Huangpu River and is home to extremely tall, glitzy buildings. As we walked along the riverfront, we experienced many interesting and artsy details such as the benches, paving patterns, and drainage networks. A living wall of flowers was another beautiful feature along our walk. On our way to get dinner, we walked down one of the most famous streets in Shanghai, most known for shopping. We ate at a restaurant on the top floor of the mall.

Next on our agenda was a river cruise, which sounded rather miserable with the drizzle, but the cold rain didn’t stop us! We waited in line for the boat to arrive; Jena, Rachel, Sara, and Jessie had to stay strong to hold back the entire crowd from sneaking around us to cut in line. It was hilarious waiting in that line, forcefully standing our ground to keep our spot in line, but it was worth it, getting prime seats near the windows. The cruise circled around in front of the main stretch of the Bund. The building lights were brilliantly bright and colorful, creating somewhat of a light show. Some of us went up to the upper deck for photos, even though it was windy and rainy.


View from the river cruise


Concluding our night, we went back to the hotel and went to the top floor for more exploring. It has been an interesting transition from Beijing to Shanghai. Beijing definitely had some interesting spots we ran across through exploration; Shanghai seems to include Western-style culture.

To give you a little taste of the cultural differences we've been learning about, here are some examples: When sketching at sites, many people crowd around us to watch. When a fish is ordered at a meal, whichever way the head is pointing, that is who must make a toast and take the first bite. The markets sell things like scorpion on a stick, starfish, seahorse, and sheep testicles. Avril Lavigne and Michael Jackson are extremely popular in China. Fruit is served as the last thing at a meal and functions as a dessert. Finally, chivalry is not dead in China; the men carry their girlfriends' or wives' purses when walking down the street.

That’s all for now! Get ready for an update from the French Concession tomorrow!

-- Jessie King

May 21, 2011

Day 6 -- Another busy day and lots of fun. For now, enjoy some photographs. A full post soon to come!

Beihai Park on a sunny Saturday afternoon


Beihai Park      


Hot pot


Hot pot


Pedi-cab


Pedi-cab ride!


Drummers perform at the Drum Tower every two hours


Houtong courtyard


Traditional Houtong